Kato/Hobbytrain

About twenty years ago the Kato/Hobbytrain tie-up produced two German outline steamers: the BR86 2-8-2T and the originally Prussian version of the BR57 0-10-0. I have examples of both. My BR86 was bought about a year after the model first appeared. The early ones had conventional 'see-through' spoked wheels. Apparently there were electrical problems with these, by the time I got mine the wheels were solid but with well defined spokes so that they still looked acceptable. If possible, try a test run on the Kato BR86 before you commit yourself. My Lok ran very well indeed for about six months. While shunting on my Schabbach layout it suddenly lurched and stopped. I suspected the power pick up from the front pony truck. Closer inspection seemed to indicate that the quartering on one of the driving wheels had slipped slightly. I fixed this as well as I could. The loco still runs reasonably but does seem to have a tendency to 'limp' slightly. I still value my model, at the time it was the only N gauge BR86 available. However, I plan to acquire at least one Fleischmann BR86 this year. If this is anything like their BR64 it's excellent. The Hobbytrain BR57 looks marvellous and still does. Partially plastic motion, namely the connecting rod and cross-head (Kreuzkopf) assembly. One joint is clipped together. Occasionally this would separate. I managed to ''fettle' this with a little TLC and the Lok has been fine ever since. Once again again this was the only N gauge BR57 available at the time. Now I understand that Minitrix do a BR57 but almost certainly at a modern price! I like the newer Minitrix steamers but they are a little expensive for my tastes. I'd love a new BR44 to back up my old Roco 44's but the UK quoted price would buy about four quality (and they are quality) Hornby locos in OO gauge!

I recently acquired early Flying Hamburger from Kato (secondhand, e-bay) and it is really nice model, with well defined print, good runner (although a bit too fast for my taste). Model is a bit noisy on higher speed, but not too much so I don't mind. Price/performance/quality ratio is very good and I'm hunting for other Kato models from DRG era. Bottom line is that I'm very happy with Kato. :8)

My HO (DB) experience with the brand began with the BR V 65 and went on with the "Flying Hamburger". Both these were excellent in every respect except motor noise; the V 65 still compares well with the much newer Roco version. The more recent battery railcars, 515/815 and "Limburger Zigarre" are as good as any other recent products and much quieter than before. David

kato/hobbytrain
I finally bought this BR 18 and I must say that I am very disappointed. This lok was almost $300 and here is what I do not like about it. First, right out of the box, I can see a brass contact bar behind and across all three drivers- both sides. Second, I am supposed to put all of the steps on the front of this engine-will not fit in the holes, and the ones that do fit, fall right out. Third, the front truck does not stay on the track! Did I just get a lemon? Does anyone else have similar experience? (N-scale). When I buy a new engine, I want it to not only look great, but perform great. The body is all metal and tender as well, the paint is crisp and clear but that does not make up for the very lack of performance and additional detailing that the owner must do-especially for the money. NOT WORTH IT. I hope that my troubles and expense will save others from it, then it will be worth it to me.

Kato/Hobbytrain
The box has "Hobbytrain" on it and it looks like its from Germany. I also forgot to say that as I was putting on the steps at the front of the engine, the two buffers on the front fell out and a ladder on the tender fell out of its hole. I have seen this on the "Lemke" website also, so I guess they may have some sort of partnership. Pierre

I only have one Hobbytrain lok, a secondhand G 10 (BR57) that I got on eBay; it was first manufactured in 1987. The green color is rather garish but it is an eye-catcher. It's the only lok I've got which had the axle ends already painted - a realistic touch. It is powered by my least-favorite drive scheme - the motor is in the tender with a Cardan extension into the cab to move the drive wheels. My Cardan connector was split when I purchased the model, and it slipped on the shaft so eventually the lok would not move. I did not think I could obtain a replacement part, so I wrapped the broken part with a piece of Super-glue-soaked nylon stocking mesh. It works fine now. The worst part of this lok is the power pick-up - only two of the tender's three axles are electrified, and that only by virtue of their pointed axle ends sitting in rather loose sockets in a brass support. This is more an exercise in faith than electronics in my opinion. I eventually added brass shims to act on all three tender axles, and this helps immensely but the lok can still stall on switches and crossovers. It runs quietly and will crawl slowly even with a load when it is picking up current. Someday I will try to extend the pick-up to the lok's drive axles - has anyone tried something like this? Kato, Lemke, and Hobbytrain seem to be inter-related somehow, and it's often difficult to determine the differences (if any) between their products. I am interested in the new Hobbytrain BR18.3 (I love blue loks!), so thanks for the comments. How is the current pick-up handled? By the way, the Minitrix G 10 and S 3/6 (BR18.4/BR18.5) versions have my favorite drive method, a Faulhaber can motor mounted in the boiler with direct gearing to the driving wheels. They run beautifully and quietly with good pulling power and low-speed performance - in fact, they cannot be run very fast. The Minitrix G 10 is a very dark olive color (too dark for such a small scale model, in my opinion) and so it and the Hobbytrain version look very different, even next to each other! I think the only concession to the KPEV on the Hobbytrain lok is the color. The model still has a tall stack and those actuating rods extending from the front of the cab to someplace on the upper boiler, which I believe are not prototypical for Ep I. It does have only two headlights, though.

I found this review of the Hobbytrain BR18.3 in eBay. It is in German so I can only get the gist of it, but it may help others more. http://testberichte.ebay.de/HOBBYTRAIN-bad-IVh-BR18-3-Spur-N-Art-Nr-4000-4001_W0QQugidZ10000000006084631

Kato/Hobbytrain
According to that review, there are more negatives than positives. Basically, this make/model is a disappointment. The faulhaber is a much netter design all-around, such as is in the Minitrix. As was stated before, with the cost, it is not worth buying. I personally have not tried the connect to the pick up of the drive axles. If there is another model (new)by this company that you people have had very good luck with, I may try it. As for me at this time, I will go with Arnold again and Fleischmann. Pierre

I recently purchased the Minitrix BR18.5 in the blue color scheme for the 1924 Seddin Exhibition, which was their Club model for last year. It came in a wooden box and is beautifully painted and finished. Its Faulhaber motor drives the main axles directly, and the model performs almost flawlessly. With the falling dollar it cost over $300, but that seems to be the standard we are at now if we expect modern quality. Hornby seems to be releasing a number of older Arnold loks. Some appear to be upgraded with new 5-pole motors according to the Hornby website, while some may not have been altered at all. I have four old Arnold loks. All run reasonably well and two pull with the best of them. The worst is the P 4.2/BR36 which has Cardan drive. Its balance was bad and little of its weight was sitting on the the driving wheels, which are at the rear. I worked on it for a long time, eventually adding a coil spring to the leading truck guide pin which pushes up on the frame and tilts the lok back on its rear drivers. It will now pull four illuminated 3-axle coaches up a grade. The pinion gear is getting a little loose in the frame, however, and I fear it may need more work soon. It has a big, boxy Prussian 4-axle tender, and I have been considering dropping an entire Fleischmann tender drive into it and eliminating the Cardan drive altogether. By the way, Fleischmann has stuck with their ancient 3-pole standard Piccolo motor for years, and my Fleischmanns are among the most reliable loks I have. So 5-pole motor upgrades may not improve older loks with poor drive systems all that much. The worst of my Fleischmanns are their beautiful-looking T 18/BR78 loks. Once again the culprit is suspect pick-up arrangements. The older one has all the positive pick-up on the left drive wheels and all the negative pick-up on the carrying trucks. This does not spread the positive pick-up out enough to negotiate some turnouts properly. Their newer versions feature a revised pick-up scheme which has each carrying truck picking up current from a different rail, but it seems not to have improved the situation all that much. Arnold made the T 18/BR78 also, but it is not as pretty as the Fleischmann version; I don't have one and don't know how it runs.

Hello, Pierre. Looking at your complaints about the Hobbytrain BR18.3 once again, I might have some help. When the little snap-on details (ladders, railings, vents, etc) are loose in their holes, I find a tiny drop of water-soluble white glue (Elmer's) will hold them in place without marring the paint job or affecting the plastic. Apply the glue with a small, wet paintbrush. Slight pressure or a twist will enable you to remove the parts later, if need be. To enlarge holes that are too small to accept the mounting pins of the parts meant to fit in them, you can use a small twist drill or the tip of a sharp hobby knife, lightly rotated in the hole. This will also clean out any excess paint or plastic that may remain in the holes, making them smaller than they should be. As for the leading truck not staying on the track, is it possible the piston extension housings which protrude from the cylinder boxes, or even the front ladders, are fouling the truck on tight curves? If your layout has small-radius curves these details may have to be removed or altered. I hope this helps.

Kato/Hobbytrain
Hello Bill, I actually looked at those options. Here is what I found: The boiler and tender are made of metal, so there is no drilling out the hole. Also, the front truck pistons had a bracket underneath each one so I would have had to cut those off. If I did that and it still didnt work, I would not have been allowed to get my money back because it was not sent back in perfect condition. For a $300 engine, no one should have to do this but Thanks for the tips anyway. I will stick with Minitrix, Arnold and Fleischmann. Pierre

If you are going to keep the model don't surrender to those small holes in the metal boiler. The metal usually used in the external parts of model railroad equipment is very soft. An undersized hole can easily be drilled or reamed with a twisted knife just like a plastic one. Recently, however, I elongated a round axle hole in a Fleischmann chassis to give the contact wheels better vertical motion. Now that was a job, using a tiny round file I nearly wore my thumb out to remove only a very small amount of metal. We N-gaugers have to stick together, so stay in touch!

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