While we're on the topic, I also suggest you check out the Era-2 Dutch decals at: http://www.mkmodelbouwstudio.nl He makes a series of decals to convert Roco and GFN "O" coal wagons to Era-2 Dutch wagons and, even more colorful, a whole series of decals to convert GFN or Sachsenmodelle oil tankers to Era-2 Dutch companies. Again, I have used these (both coal & oil car decals) and have been quite satisfied. Greatly expands our Ep-2 freight fleet.

I can also recommend "Future" as a gloss medium for decalling. It's called "Klear" in the UK and probably Europe too. It's also good for fixing window glazing and giving it a really glossy, clear finish. Nick

One important thing. Don't use tap water. Use distilled water. You can usually get it at garages. The calcium salts in tap water leave a milky look.

Thanks for that guys. Can anyone recommend a 'setting solution' which is readily obtainable in UK? Or is distilled water good enough??

One of the best and easy to get hold of is Carr's Transfix. They also do what is probably the best range of solders and fluxes for all metals. Bernard Lamb

The American Micro range of decal fixers, solvents and protectors is widely available and was introduced to me by my son (military modelling) The product will soften decals whilst providing a base-their coating is non-yellowing and unlike other manufacturer's products, none the Micro range will damage the often delicate and rare decals. It is all I will trust with my ancient M&F decals. You need to visit the model shop in Poole High Strret.

Well I successfully transferred the large decals onto the sides of the Roco DRG coaches without any preparation. The only tip is to cut them as close as possible to trim off the excess transparent plastic surrounding it. I also found that black silk matt (Seidenmatt) paint is best for painting over the existing underframe lettering. Gloss is too shiny and matt is too sooty. However, when I tried sliding those tiny letters onto the underframe, they refused to go into the right place and then tore. Or they ruckled up or bubbled and would not flatten out. Before I ruin any more - does anyone have any experience of doing this fiddly job?

I usually make sure the destination is very wet, with a puddle of either with water or setting solution, so that I can float the decal from the backing into position. I want to avoid the decal wrapping around the edge of the backing paper. When it's on the model and close to where I want it, I use the corner of some tissue paper to suck up the excess water and then work it into its final position. RK

Many years ago I found two useful tools, both from the eye surgery industry, for this job. The first was some fine forceps. You could make your own by bending the end of some ordinary tweezers and filing them to make a slender tip. The idea is that they hold at a convenient angle but do not obscure the decal. The other things are tiny triangles of absorbent felt on the end of plastic handles. These are a disposable item used by eye surgeons when operating to mop away tears. You'd need to find a medical supply house for these. The latter you use for positioning and removing excess water. Incidentally, only use distilled water. The stuff sold by garages is adequate. That way you don't get the salts dissolved in tap water crystallizing out and making that fuzzy look behind the decal. You may need several coats of setting solution before the decal completely settles. The felt tip again comes in useful to minimise the liquid that makes the decal float up again. HTH

I was very happy with Testors - Model Master decal setting solutions (2 part, one to apply on the model, other to seal and fix decal. N gauge ep2 decals were discussed here: forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=2007" target="_blank">http://germanrail.8.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=2007 For Ep1 I don't have any info.